From the Archives: Herbs for Winter Soups

by Madalene Hill and Gwen Barclay

Rosemary, Rosmarinus officinalis.	About this time of year, we tend to shift into our “peasant food mode” as we hunker down to survive another Texas winter. Our thoughts turn to hearty soups, savory stews and tender meats braised in small amounts of liquid. And seasonings are what make these “stick-to-the-ribs” recipes from every cuisine so delicious and different.
Even though we are blessed here in Texas with having most fresh herbs year round, we tend to use the heavier, more robust flavors at this season. This is simply because their strong tastes hold up to the long cooking that we associate with winter dishes. Bay laurel, rosemary, sage and thyme are all old herbal friends that find their way into many pots of soup, especially dried beans, with or without meats. The strong flavors of these Mediterranean natives are balanced with plenty of sweet marjoram (or mild oregano) and parsley. Delicate herbs such as spearmint, dill or lemon thyme can give a lift to delicate spinach or carrot soups that taste good all year long. But to balance strong root vegetables or greens, such as kale, and to hold up to meats, at least one or two pungent-flavored herbs are required.
Salvia, Salvia officinalis.	In addition to our favorite Mediterranean leafy herbs, the seeds of the parsley family, which include caraway, coriander, cumin and fennel, play an important role. Either whole or ground, herbal seeds provide an intense and complex flavor that you do not get from the foliage alone. Try toasting the seeds in a dry skillet (before grinding) for
a rich, nutty flavor. Sweet spices, such as cinnamon, clove and allspice, add another layer of flavor particularly to meat dishes or curried vegetables. In addition, many other ingredients act as seasonings: citrus peels and juice brighten and lift flavors; aromatic vegetables such as onions, celery and mushrooms add to overall goodness, especially when browned first. Fats, such as butter or olive oil, and strong cheeses provide richness and great “mouth feel.” Nuts of all types act as thickeners; sweeteners, which include honey and brown sugar; and don’t forget chiles, in their endless variety of colors, shapes and flavors to give a little kick to the dish. Every spice plays a part in creating what our mouths and noses perceive as the final taste. To prepare super flavorful soups, and many other dishes for that matter, most cooks begin by making stock or broth. We make this staple item, usually chicken or turkey based, a little differently than most recipe books. We use no vegetables or seasonings, just meat (backs are our first choice) and water. No onion, celery or carrot; no bouquet garni, the bundle of fresh and dried herbs of which the French are so fond; and absolutely no salt. Granted, all these ingredients, along with meat and bones, will result in a well-flavored broth, but when used to make different soups, will always taste the same. If preparing a stock or broth for a specific recipe, we will usually add whatever seasonings and aromatic vegetablesthat are called for in the dish. We find our neutral flavored mild chicken stock is useful for other meat dishes, too, especially pork and seafood. It must be used quickly (2 to 3 days) or frozen. Fat should be skimmed away from cooled broth before using or freezing.
Thyme, Thymus vulgaris.	A great way to get started with using seasonings is to adapt a recipe that you already know...a family favorite that calls for no herbs, but one that you are sure will be enjoyed. Add seasonings to these recipes and then branch out to new challenges. For 10-12 cups of soup, use 3 to 4 tablespoons of chopped fresh herbs. This can be
a single flavor or mixture of mild and robust herbs. Substitute 1/3 to 1/2 dried herbs. Or drop 10 to 12 sprigs of fresh herbs down into the cooking liquids. These sprigs should be 4-6 inches long after their woody stems are removed. The leaves will drop off as they cook, then remove the stems with tongs or a slotted spoon before serving. Try 1 to 2 teaspoons ground herbal seeds, such as coriander, cumin, or fennel, or use sweet ground spices, such as allspice, cinnamon or clove. Along with salt and pepper and the aromatic vegetables so good in these hearty dishes, you will create a flavorful, tummy-filling meal. It’s impossible to make a mistake as long as you use a light touch and don’t overpower the dish. That is one advantage of using fresh herbs. Your eye will tell you when there is enough! It is another story with dried herbs, however. Try these favorite recipes and get ready for a good dose of 20th century “comfort food” guaranteed to chase away the cold weather blues. HILLTOP CREAM OF CHICKEN SOUP AUX FINES HERBES An old favorite from the 1950's updated with fresh herbs Ingredients 1 chicken, 2 1/2-3 pounds, cut into serving pieces 4 cups water 1 large onion, chopped 1 cup celery, sliced 1/2 cup shredded carrot 1 tablespoon chopped fresh sweet marjoram (1 teaspoon dried) 1 1/2 teaspoons chopped fresh sage (3/4 teaspoon dried) 1 1/2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme (3/4 teaspoon dried) 1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley 3 bay leaves, fresh or dried 1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg 1/2 teaspoon powdered turmeric 3/4 to 1 cup cooked white rice 1/2 cup butter or margarine 1/2 cup all-purpose flour 3 cups milk 1 cup heavy cream Salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste Additional chopped fresh parsley for garnish Directions Place chicken pieces, water, vegetables and herbs in a large, heavy pan (not a tall deep stock pot) and bring to a boil. Cover, reduce heat and simmer until chicken is tender. Remove chicken from broth and vegetables. Cool until it can be handled; remove skin and bones, and cut meat in bite-sized pieces. In a large saucepan, melt butter and blend in flour. Cook until bubbling; gradually pour in milk, stirring constantly. Add cream, nutmeg and turmeric. Heat until thickened and smooth, stirring to keep mixture from sticking. Slowly add to broth and vegetable mixture stirring constantly. Add cooked rice, salt and pepper, and cut up chicken. Cook over low heat to simmering, stirring often. Garnish with chopped parsley. Yield: 2 1/2 quarts Note: We often use chunks of celery, onion and carrot to cook chicken with herb sprigs and then add additional chopped vegetables after broth is strained to finish soup; they are nice and crisp and colorful. Additional chopped fresh herbs can be added just before serving for a fresh flavor. Recipe adapted from SOUTHERN HERB GROWING, Madalene Hill and Gwen Barclay, Shearer Publishing, 1987 - revised 1997. HUNGARIAN SZEKELY GOULASH Szekely is a town in Southern Hungary, long famous for its paprika. Ingredients 4 ounces lean bacon, cut into half inch pieces 2 pounds boneless pork, trimmed of fat and cut into 1-inch cubes 1 large red onion, chopped coarsely 1-2 large cloves garlic, minced 2 tablespoons flour 2 tablespoons sweet Hungarian Paprika 2 teaspoons caraway seed 1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage 2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary 1 tablespoon chopped fresh sweet marjoram 2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme 1 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 cups apple juice or cider - recipe tested with frozen apple juice diluted with only 2 parts water instead of 3 2 pounds sauerkraut, drained and rinsed if too salty 2-3 green cooking apples, cored and sliced into 12-16 pieces each 1 cup sour cream Steamed and buttered red potatoes, spatzle or egg noodles Chopped fresh dill and parsley for garnish Directions In a large, deep roasting pan or Dutch oven, cook bacon until crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon and reserve at room temperature. Leave 1-2 tablespoons of fat in pan. Add pork cubes gradually, stirring until brown on all sides. Stir in onion and garlic, mixing well. Cook until onion softens but is not brown. Sprinkle flour, paprika and seasonings over vegetables and meat and stir to combine, letting mixture brown slightly. Add apple juice and sauerkraut; mix well. Reduce heat, cover and cook until meat is tender, about 45-60 minutes. Stir occasionally and add additional apple juice if needed. During last 15 minutes of cooking time, stir in apples and simmer covered until apples are just tender. Cook slowly, but avoid overcooking. Dish can easily be prepared ahead up to this point, and then reheated. When ready to serve, remove a small amount of liquid to a small dish and combine with sour cream and mix well. Stir thinned sour cream into pork, adding a small amount of liquid if meat mixture is too dry. Heat just until hot; do not boil or sour cream may curdle. Serve with steamed red potatoes, spatzle, or egg noodles. Garnish with chopped dill and parsley, and reserved crisp bacon. Yield: 6 generous servings Note: Small dumplings would also be very traditional and delicious for this dish.